Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Inveraray & Isle of Skye (West)

Another week has flown by since we last blogged and we had another interesting weekend - this time slightly south of Aberdeen at Portsonachan and Inveraray and then north to Plockton and Isle of Skye. (By the way, make sure you double click on the scenery photos to get a better appreciation of the views.) Anyway, we left early Friday evening, drove south thru Dundee and north to Portsonachan. I had googled for accommodation in the area of Oban and come up with this lovely place nestled on the edge of Loch Awe but hadn't realised it was actually 20 miles south of Oban...fortunately Mason checked and we didn't end up going to the wrong place. The drive was fine until we got to the usual narrow, windy, 70 mile an hour (112km/hr) limit less or roads...driving at night, with hedges and barriers right next to the road lane round blind corners, with no street lights is not fun!
By the way, their road reflectors (if there are any) are not the usual 1/2m high posts we have in Oz, they are 1.5m poles. Mase worked out why (as he logically would!). It's to ensure the reflectors are visible even after heavy snowfall and road clearing.
Anyway, back to our trip. Our drive to Portsonachan was interesting as we watched the temperature outside rise and fall as we drove down into valleys and then climbed the hills. The range was between 12' and 2'.
We checked in and walked into our 'cottage' where we were blasted with heat from the air conditioner - we turned everything off or down and got the kids into bed...Our room was upstairs and had a skylight style window which we opened and breathed in the beautiful cold air - we drank in the fresh air and wished we could go out for a walk (but the kids weren't asleep).
Our bed was smaller than the small double bed (which the lessor assures us is a king bed) that we have in Aberdeen - it didn't make for a good night's sleep and the kids were up at 6am. So at 7am we went for a walk and saw the sunrise. The morning was thick with cloud and mist. We'd hoped to be able to see the Loch but it was completely misted over. Visibility was very low as we walked along and we were all glad to have gloves and rain jackets and for the first time Mase made the concession of wearing his beanie (and a jumper) - it was cold! Jo's jacket has reflective white edging.
Breakfast was at 8am - we were seated near a table that had a hippo for it's base/legs (photo above) and there was another similar, smaller coffee table with otters for a base....
As the mist hadn't cleared, we headed off to our next stop but as we drove out of the valley Mase noticed frost on the grass and bushes so we stopped and got out to have a look. Neither the children nor I had seen this before - we could wipe our fingers along the grass and get a small pile of frozen dew in our hands - which we ate of course...another experience at 2 degrees in the morning.

Then on to Inveraray, to visit a Live Jail Museum but when we arrived and looked around the town we decided we'd rather do a walk. I wandered over to the Tourist Information Centre and asked if they had any walk trails. The woman replied that we could climb the mountain directly outside the centre (with a tower at the top) which we'd been looking at and photographing - so that was great. Here's two photos of the mountain taken before we climbed - you should just be able to see the stone tower at the top. It was a 1.5hr walk up and back. We had to drive to Inverarary Castle to commence the walk and headed up into the woodland - we saw a deer for a few fleeting seconds. The trail was steep in parts but there were dozens of little creeks running down the side of the mountain to the trail where we could drink and just enjoy the beauty of the whole scene...However when we reached the top the view was absolutely gorgeous - the morning was clear and calm and the panorama was stunning.. these photos don't do it justice. You may be able to see Inveraray Castle in the foreground of the photo. We had the whole view to ourselves. The picture of Jo & Matt shows them sitting in the tower at the top of the hill. The walk back down was hilarious with the children pretending they were dirt bikes and revving their engines and going full pelt down the trail...
Then we drove to Oban - a little fishing village - well known as the Seafood Capital of Scotland...we considered a fish lunch but opted for something a little less formal. We ate our toasted paninis as we drove to Craig's Tower - looks like the Colosseum but isn't and it gave a nice view over Oban.



The drive from Oban to Fort William was absolutely stunning. The roads meandered through valleys (glens) with pine trees and fields and mountains that domineered the wider view. Then the scene changed as the roads took us alongside the Lochs, with huge mountains on either side - just beautiful.
We arrived at Fort William to see Neptune's Staircase - a series of 8 gates that enable boats to travel uphill from the Atlantic Ocean thru to the North Sea. Getting to Neptune's Staircase revealed the totally opposite methods Mase and I employ when it comes to finding new places. Mase drove around for a while following his nose (I thought it was aimless and was wishing he'd let me go and ask at the Information Centre for directions)....we had a lovely 'discussion' about this topic and the validity of both methods and so I 'graciously' caved in. Shortly thereafter Mase arrived at the spot! The lock gate system was really interesting and we (Mase) explained how it worked to the children and then we got to see it in action as a sailboat entered the gates and began to work it's way up the staircase. The total height difference is 20m. In brief the boat enters the first lock where the water is let thru from the upper lock to let the water level rise (by about 3m). To do this the bottom section of the higher gate is raised (below water level obviously) and you can see the water become a turbulent whirlpool as the water rushes in and the two lock areas become level. Then the massive metal gates open and the boat moves into the next lock. Then the process is repeated until it reaches the next Loch. The children were fascinated and had all sorts of questions and things to point out...well worth the visit (thanks for the tip, Mum).

I should also say that Fort William is overshadowed by Ben Nevis (the largest mountain in the UK) and it was impressive. It's part of the Nevis range which is quite long.
Then we had a 1.5hr drive to Plockton (as place one of the brethren at Aberdeen said we should visit). Again, the drive was magnificent through the mountains - the sun was setting on the mountains and cast a warm glow over them. We could see the narrow valleys that rushing water had cut into the sides of the mountains and the waterfalls and streams that had formed...we saw water coming out of rocks halfway up mountains and right next to the road. At one point we stopped to fill up our water bottles from the waterfall right next to the road.
We arrived in Plockton at about 6.30pm (dark). It's a tiny fishing village nestled in a small bay and apparently very pretty. We had dinner in a small pub/hotel...these places are very family friendly and have an area/s that are separate from the bar. We had an early night (due to the usual early mornings) and were up and off for a walk early the next morning. It was raining (lightly) and very windy and these conditions didn't give us the best opportunity to see the village and its surrounding mountains (photo of boats in foreground and mountain behind). However we walked down the main street and along the bay front - the houses had front gardens but they were separated by the road - quite different.
We headed back for brekkie after taking a few photos and then drove to the Isle of Skye (about 15 mins away). The bridge between the mainland Scotland and the Isle was built in 1995 and has been the cause of controversy for many a Scot as they feel the Isle is no longer a true island...but we found it quite convenient - better than going by ferry. The day was clearing now and by the time we got the Isle of Skye things were looking blue and clear. We drove around a very small part of the Isle and again were amazed at the huge, seemingly barren mountains that surrounded us.
Our drive followed a river which at times was narrow and fast, other times wide and slower and at one point we stopped where there was a pebbled beach (in winter it would be covered by water) and made our way down to the water. Kids threw in stones and drank the cold, clear water. It was here that we decided to climb one of the mountains we could see (photo attached). The kids were very keen and so we set off. Rain jackets, water, muesli bars...who knew how long we'd take. We began this mountain climb from the road where we parked (which was 200m up the mountain). The mountain (Sgurr na Coinnich) is 739m high and we probably climbed about 360m to one of the lower peaks (at 560m or so). The photo with Sam in front is only part of the way up our climb - you can see the car below. We began the ascent picking our way up the mountain face. From a distance the mountains look barren but they are actually covered in small red leafed plants and heather (orange/brown fernlike plants). Mase was in the lead, keeping us on the higher ground. We had quickly found out how wet the ground was, with hidden streams under the heather and boggy areas in the lower ground. The kids didn't seem bothered when they stepped in these patches and by the time we got to 'our top' their shoes were pretty well soaked. We had a few stops along the way to catch our breath and rest our legs - Matt did really well considering his little legs and was very keen. As we got closer to the top of the mountain the clouds started coming in lower and the sky became more overcast...Mase didn't think we'd get caught in rain but we felt it was safer to head back.. Here's some photos of the view from where we got to. The trip back down is the part I dislike most. However the kids think that's the best bit. With Matt in the lead they began running down the mountain - careless of where they were heading (into wet, boggy valleys). Within a few minutes they were out of my sight and Mase was way ahead of me too but within sight of the kids who were having a ball. By the time they reached the car they were wet to the waist. When I finally arrived at the car they excitedly told me how they'd run down the mountain, fallen over heaps and face planted into the heather and plants as they went. Needless to say they were wet to the waist when they arrived at the car but they were happy and said it was the best climb we'd done.
Then we drove on to Kyle a small town where we saw an Otter's Hide signposted. We walked the trail to the Hide and entered. It was well appointed - overlooking the water and had binoculars and charts to help us identify what we saw. We saw some seals and an otter at a great distance but Matt and Jo were hungry and not in the mood to sit quietly and look out of binoculars, so we left after about 1/2 hour. We had lunch and then drove back to the bridge to return to the mainland and start heading home (about 2.30pm).




Again the drive was stunning - this time the sun was behind us and we were able to get some lovely pics of the countryside. We arrived home about 9.30pm. (Photo of one of the Lochs next to the road as we drove back, castle on the opposite side of the Loch)

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